Two-Train Floating Balance Mantel Clocks

On some clocks not all the instructions are strictly necessary, but if you follow them, you are guaranteed not to hurt your clock.

Transport:

Although floating balance clocks are tolerant of being transported in any orientation, be aware that they are designed to work when upright. If the clock is not upright, friction will cause the balance to drastically slow or even stop.
Another consideration is that the strike mechanism relies on gravity for part of its operation. So the clock may strike erratically or continuously if not upright. There are built-in safety features that prevent damage to the clock in this circumstance, and the clock should resume normal operation once upright.
If the clock has a “Silent” lever, it’s best to use that for transport. The silent position is down.

Location:

Any reasonably level surface is fine.
Try to make sure the surface is flat such that the clock does not wobble.
Avoid locations subject to extremes of temperature or prolonged periods of direct sunlight.

Winding:

Most floating balance clocks are wound from the back. Looking at the back of the clock, the winding direction is anti-clockwise.
There are two spring barrels which have to be wound; the right one powers the strike operation and the left powers the timekeeping part of the movement.
The barrels should be wound once per week. Although they can be wound more frequently, once per week will give the best timekeeping consistency. Most clocks will actually run for ten days or more before stopping.
Try not to let the clock run down, but if it does, it is best to wind the strike barrel first. Then allow any striking operation to complete before winding the time barrel and advancing the minute hand to the correct time. Stop if you feel any restriction other than the normal hands setting friction.
If it is anticipated that it will not be possible to keep it wound, the strike barrel should be fully wound, and the right allowed to run down first.
It is impossible to overwind the spring barrels – when winding, the key will come to an obvious stop.

Starting the clock:

Most floating balance clocks in good condition will self-start during winding.
If the clock does not start, a brisk but gentle rotation about 90 degrees of the whole case should start it.
It is possible to start the balance by very gently turning it by about 30 degrees and releasing. Be aware that it is very delicate, use only the merest fingertip pressure.

Setting the time:

Most floating balance clocks have a square on the centre arbor accessible from the back for setting the time.
Although the clocks have safety mechanisms to prevent damage if the hands are moved backwards, it is best practice to only advance the time.
Move the minute hand slowly to allow the strike mechanism to work.
When adjusting the time, the strike train (right winding square) should be fully wound.
When advancing the hand through the hour or half-hour, allow the strike to complete each time.
For the Autumn time change (clocks go back), the time should be advanced through 11 hours rather than turning the hands back. Remember to let the strike complete on each hour and half-hour. Do not attempt to try and stop the balance

Regulating the time:

If the clock has just been repaired, it will have been regulated over several weeks such that it will keep reasonably good time aggregated over the week-long winding period. Within the week, there may be variations. Typically, a spring driven clock will gain for the first part of the week and lose for the last two or three days.
If it is felt that the clock is subject to a permanent change such that there is a consistent change in rate, the gain or loss can be reduced by adjusting the balance.
Moving the pointer on the rim of the balance wheel acts to change the mass distribution within the balance wheel, thereby altering its moment of inertia. This changes the frequency of oscillation and therefore the rate of the clock.
Most floating balance clocks are calibrated such that moving the pointer one hole will give a rate change of approximately 10 seconds per day. Move the pointer to the right to make the clock gain (usually stamped “F” on the plate).
It is essential that extreme care is taken when making adjustments – the balance assembly is very delicate. The technique is to grip the balance wheel rim between thumb and forefinger without exerting any force and nudge the pointer with a squared off cocktail stick or similar.
After making an adjustment, the clock should be left for another winding cycle before making a further adjustment. It is essential not to “chase the rate” as the clock will take a day or more to settle to the new adjustment.